The Approach and The Plan

After a successful climb of Petit Grepon earlier in the week (you can read the part 1 trip report also) the big goal was The Diamond on Longs Peak. While we had originally scheduled the Diamond for Friday the unsettled forecast had us switching things around. In retrospect we probably could have kept to the plan to do Lumpy, then Petit, rest day, then the Diamond since the rain that had influenced our planning never really was a problem when we would of been climbing. You just don't know so with the forecast as it was we decided to do the Diamond on Thursday.

Long's Peak by any route is a big day usually taking at least 12 hours but climbing the Diamond is especially long, particularly if you're planning to summit as we were. So we left the trailhead at 2:15 a.m. beginning the long approach by headlamp. I got a little off route after our bathroom stop and had to hook farther right around Chasm Lake but nailed the rest of the approach which took us just about 3.5 hours to reach the North Chimney. I hadn't been on Long's for several years and had worried weather we would need to pull some shenanigans to get across Mills Glacier but was surprised we just walked on rocks all the way to the Chimney. With two parties in the chimney and two coming up behind us I decided to be efficient and keep us moving. One party was sticking to the rock on the left side and the other was not too far ahead. So I threw on my rack and rope and started short roping and pitching us through the chimney. If you've never been in the North Chimney it's my least favorite part, especially if you're not first. There is loose rock everywhere and you have to move between the rock fall shadows so you don't get hit. Even so I dislodged a small rock that luckily wasn't too far from the guest and avoided an injury. As we continued we caught up to the party ahead and jockeyed for position choosing slightly different lines. Another party soloed past us and the other party that had been to the side joined us deeper in the chimney. The dry conditions still had enough moisture from the bit of snow to make me wonder if I should of put on my climbing shoes. Just as the sun was rising several of us (who all happened to be climbing the same route) ended up reaching the base at roughly the same time.

Parties jockey for position as they race up the North Chimney and try not to kill each other

The party that had been ahead of us and got ready first did offer to let us go since I was being paid to be there. While that wouldn't of been fair to the other party I did kind of consider it. Climbing is still a first come, first served sort of deal though. After we let them get started the other party chimed in that we hadn't really discussed it with them. Since we kind of got to the base at the same time we agreed to Rochambeau and unfortunately we lost. I could only hope everyone would be quick. We hung out for about an extra hour enjoying the views before we were able to get started. Another party showed up in the meantime and eventually bailed after realizing it would be hours before they could get going.

We carried a small rack of nuts, double cams from 0.3 through 3, and ten slings, mostly alpine draws with a couple of quickdraws. I hadn't done the Casual Route in a while but I would make one small change and bring a few micro cams and a couple more draws. Having those smaller pieces along would have saved some of the repeated gear bumping and made the climbing a little quicker. Although owing to the parties ahead efficiency wasn't the most important factor.

The Climb

Maybe the biggest challenge was not the route but the amount of time lost to parties ahead of us to which I estimated it probably added close to three hours of additional time between their speed and waiting for them to finish pitches. While roping up was necessary it did slow us down enough that we couldn't really get ahead of anyone. We had been moving efficiently through the North Chimney but sometimes you just have to wait. Luckily the weather was good and it did give me some good beta I might not have realized if I wouldn't of watched the two parties intermingle on the steep face. The most common 2nd and 3rd pitch are easily combined to avoid a heinous hanging belay at the top of the 2nd. This also saves a transition and doesn't require any significant gear. Since the parties were still at the station when I got there I didn't get prime real estate until they left and at that point I had a bunch of rope in my lap. Once my client got to the belay I gave them the good stance and then proceeded up our third pitch.

This was the only required hanging belay on the climb for us. From there we did a bit of a grovel through a tight chimney before it became a more enjoyable corner system that lead to a more spacious belay. Doing this with a pack sucks. If you're smart you'll either drop the pack on a sling or just have the leader haul it up since you have a second rope anyways.

Despite some fighting with the chimney this proceeds what I consider the best pitch of the climb. You head up a spectacular corner system that's steep enough you can't just push off the walls to make progress and actually have to make moves and pull but has good enough feet you get regular rests and plentiful gear. You do need to be judicious about how much gear you place and I had to leap frog and bump gear to ensure I had enough to build a belay. The top of the dihedral has a large ledge with enough room for everyone and I was able to use what little gear I had left and a good rock horn to build a solid belay.

Looking up at the next party knowing we still have a ways to go

From there we were standing under the two parties near the crux pitch which is another chimney. I had already planned to haul the packs here. The two parties ahead of us had switched places and we were now behind the original first party. After waiting for their leader to finish up the pitch we shivered a little since the sun had passed over a little bit ago. It was great weather but you have to pack light to make it happen. Still had one more layer in case I needed it. Eventually the follower started up. They ended up struggling a couple times and eventually hanging. I suggested the leader drop a loop to haul the pack which they thought was a brilliant idea. If you ever wonder why people hire guides this is why. Even on routes we might not of done as frequently we recognize solutions to climbing problems! After that the follower finished the pitch and I started up. Knowing I would haul both packs I clipped it off early to a sling and let my client know they could tie both off so I could pull them up.

I struggled up the chimney and finally pulled through. Everything is harder at nearly 14,000 feet. Finally got to the belay and was able to clip in but still had to hang since the other party was in the middle of leading the last traverse pitch. I called off belay and started preparing for the follower. Once he got going I continued to belay and haul packs until they got to the belay. They exclaimed how hard it felt in the chimney and how glad they were to not have the pack which made me feel like I got them on the right route. A good enough challenge to have to try hard but not to get shutdown on.

Almost to the top of the final harder pitch

The Summit and Descent

Another short wait and we traversed off to Table Ledge where we went up a little higher to intersect with Kiener's Route. I was happy to be able to switch into my approach shoes again and we proceeded up the easier 4th and low 5th class climbing. We reached the summit and surprisingly there was nobody else there. After spending so much of the day dealing with traffic, having the summit entirely to ourselves was a welcome treat. We guzzled some water and ate some food before taking a few pictures to celebrate their first 14er. Asking how long it would take to get back I offered up about an hour down The Cables and then 3 hours back to the car which was pretty close. Since we were getting close to four 'o' clock it was time to get moving. We hobbled down The Cables on tired legs til we got to the big eye bolt marking the one double rope rappel we needed to do. From there we were finally able to take off all the climbing gear and repack bags.

I pointed out the campsites as we passed through the Boulderfield as we hustled down. We both knew we were going to get back to the car at roughly sunset and didn't take many breaks except to get a small rock out of the shoes or a quick swig of water. There were far fewer people on the trail as we hiked out and we only passed a couple people. We donned headlamps just a little ways from the trailhead ending another successful day in the mountains.

Our total car-to-car time was 18 hours and 25 minutes. Starting in the dark and finishing in the dark is always a good reminder of the scale of a Diamond day, especially when traffic adds several hours to an already long itinerary.

We had originally planned a more low key day at Lumpy Ridge (check out the part three day). We decided to high tail it into town for a little junk food. The client's suggestion of Dairy Queen got me craving some ice cream after which we discussed the plan. After hours of boulder fields and knee hammering trail they weren't sure if they were going to feel up to climbing in the morning so we planned to text in the morning and see where we were at. To be fair this is a big day even for guides and a climbing day right after is a lot but we both felt like we'd be up for it.

So far the earlier trip on Petit Grepon had been a smooth, quiet alpine day with sunrise, waterfalls, elk, and no interruptions from other parties. The Diamond was the opposite. An early start, a long approach, scary rockfall in a busy North Chimney, lots of parties and a full summit of Longs Peak before the descent. Both were excellent days, but for completely different reasons.

Nearly through the technical stuff