This is one of my bucket list climbs. Can we for sure get a backcountry campsite reservation?

Boston Basin is hugely popular in summer so it can be really tough to get a backcountry site without planning well in advance. Flexibility is an important mindset in climbing but if you’re trying to ensure the highest likelihood of this specific objective then booking first of the year will help significantly.

How will this compare to the climbs I’ve done in Colorado?

There are a few big differences between alpine climbs in Washington and how they feel compared to the alpine climbs in Colorado.

• Colorado only has seasonal snow so a lot of the rock climbs we do will have little to no snow to deal with. West Ridge of Forbidden has a pocket glacier that usually melts out in the late summer and fall but some amount of snow and glacier travel is commonly expected.

• Trails in the North Cascades tend to have a lot more vegetation and are steeper. The hike into Boston Basin gains 3000’ in less than 3 miles which is steeper than many 14ers in Colorado while carrying an overnight pack with technical climbing gear.

• There isn’t any altitude to really worry about. The summit of Forbidden Peak is low enough that it doesn’t enter our list of concerns from a risk management standpoint.

• Weather in the mountains is always a concern for climbing. Washington does not have the same diurnal pattern as Colorado so we get up early enough to get climbs done in the daylight instead of worrying about being off summits early afternoon. Because of its latitude days are longer in the summer season which makes for less early start times.

What season is the best for the West Ridge of Forbidden?

It really depends on the type of experience you’re going for.

Late Spring and Early Summer: This is a great option for a more classic mountaineering experience. There will be more snow in the Cat Scratch Gully’s and more snow travel giving it a different flavor than later in the year.

Summer and Early Fall: This is ideal if you want to maximize rock climbing. Generally there is little and sometimes no snow travel involved. If you don’t feel competent with glacier travel then this is a better time to go.

Winter and Early Spring: This isn’t a common time for people to go. The road closures in the park make for a much longer approach than most people are willing to do. While you’re almost certain to have the route to yourself expect some significant road walking/skinning just to get to the trailhead.