Having been in business since 2010 and guiding around Colorado Springs and the rest of the Front Range we have had our fair share of guiding winter climbing trips. While it's mostly ice climbing, backcountry skiing, mountaineering or other winter skills we do still get the occasional guest who just wants to touch stone and isn't interested in the other types of climbing. If you're strategic and smart about it winter can be a great time to do some rock climbing in Colorado. Some areas you can avoid wildlife closures this way and it is a great way to avoid typically crowded crags or routes. It also tends to be great sending temps with higher friction and less issues with sweating. As professional guides a big part of our job is to provide the best experiences so here are some tips on how to pick the best spots for winter rock climbing as well as a few recommendations on locations that will be the most enjoyable. Finally we'll give you some of our professional guide tricks on maintaining the most comfort.

Climber tries an awkward mov with full jacket and windbreaker on.

How Do You Rock Climb in Colorado Winter?

There are basically 5 major conditional things you need to keep in mind when planning to rock climb during winter in Colorado. Pattern recognition in climbing is an important skill so it's worth noticing how many of these tips align with avalanche awareness as well. Here are the 5 things to keep in mind:

• Aspect and Topography

• Elevation

• Weather

• Timing

• Commitment

Aspect and Topography: Find the South Facing Climbs

If you've chased the shade in summer to keep cool then just do the opposite for winter rock climbing. Pick objectives and walls that follow the southern part of the compass. This is why Front Range climbers from Boulder, Denver, and Colorado Springs tend to flock to Shelf Road in the winter. The majority of the walls face some variant of south. It's also lower elevation (around 7000'). Don't forget the sunscreen because the sun is your key to success. Even when it's below 40 degrees you can be climbing in a t-shirt if you've got the sun on your back. You still need some of these other conditions below in your favor though.

Topography can work with you or against you. Some places like Clear Creek Canyon and Boulder Canyon follow narrow river basins which make them less than ideal for a couple reasons. While they may have south facing walls the rivers creating a cold sink and the narrowness of the canyons you get limited sunshine with the low winter sun thus keeping these spots a bit cooler than is often comfortable. The narrow canyons and temperature gradients also create pretty consistent breezes that are welcome in the heat of the summer but will really make it difficult to climb in winter. Doesn't mean it's not possible but wide open terrain faced at the sun tends to be our friend and give us a bigger window of time to climb. Certain wall features also tend to hold and concentrate heat. Amphitheater features like you find in parts of Eldorado Canyon and parts of The Flatirons tend to block breezes and really hold heat and are great for finding that winter t-shirt weather.

Elevation: Stay Low to Avoid the Snow

A lot of the temperature and comfort level in Colorado is influenced by elevation. It doesn't just apply to winter. There's a reason The Diamond on Longs Peak doesn't get climbed much in June. It's still a little wet and cold owing to it's location around 13k. Meanwhile it can be great in September after the snow has melted and before the days get shorter. For more thoughts on this check out the section about timing.

So if you're climbing in middle of winter you can pretty much write off most of the areas above about 9k. It's usually obvious because the roads will be covered in snow and inaccessible. Even so there are a few places we climb in the South Platte like Cynical Pinnacle that can be a little borderline depending on some of the other important details like aspect and recent weather. You'll see a lot more success though to aim for things that are lower elevation.

Weather: Chase Sun, Avoid Clouds, or Wind

For most of us this is pretty obvious, if it's raining or snowing you don't go climbing. There are some more subtle aspects of weather that we can keep track of though to ensure a successful winter climbing outing. Those are temperature, cloud cover, and wind speeds. You don't always get all of them but when you do it is usually a glorious day. Think of it like a tripod. With lower winds and less clouds we can have lower temperatures. I've definitely had a 30 degree windless day where things were pretty pleasant in just a fleece layer. On the opposite end the more clouds you have and the higher the wind speeds the higher temperatures need to be to be comfortable. A cloudy day at 50 degrees, even without wind can feel a bit rough. Throw in a steady 20 mph breeze and it is downright brutal.

Check out a few point forecasts for your intended crag and see what the forecast is for the day. This will help you decide how to layer or whether it's just not the best day to climb. If it's a familiar crag don't forget about the topography of the wall though. Some features will block the wind and can bump up the comfort level if you've got enough sun.

Timing: Leisure Starts

Because the sun is lower in the sky in winter and days are shorter you aren't going for an early start. Crowds are pretty limited so you don't really need to beat anyone to the crag. Often timing your approach while it warms up or planning a casual 10AM start will see the most comfortable part of the day. While you'll have shorter days there is still plenty of time to get good climbing done. One tool we use as guides is Google Earth. with the Sunlight Tool you can check some basic timing of where the sun will be shining on certain walls at certain times of year. If you're heading to an area you're unfamiliar with utilizing this with Caltopo will give you important aspect and elevation info as well as the timing piece to know the best time to hit up your intended wall or objective.

I think it's also important to think about the ability to move quickly when cold. In winter we tend to give our selves a little more grace when it comes to how much we get done. It can be cold at the start of the day and everyone may be a little more sluggish to warm up. A lot of people like to challenge themselves but winter may be the time to keep margins a little wider and go for some more cruiser type climbing days. Which brings me to the next thing.

Commitment: Not The Time for Big Climbs

I tend to aim for less committing rock climbs in winter. It's one thing to do a big committing ice climb when you have layers, big boots, and are expecting cold. With rock climbing you're not usually wanting to carry all the warm stuff up a route because of the weight. Keep your pace in mind for climbs that are more than a couple pitches and give yourself a good margin. Once the sun drops below the horizon it gets cold fast and with impending darkness you will not be moving quickly. I think of winter climbing as more of maintenance for fitness than the time to bring on big multipitch challenges. It takes a lot longer to properly warm up and with short days before darkness it's just not the best time to really push things in my opinion. Better to just enjoy the sun. That doesn't mean only single pitch climbing but I'm not looking to do big link ups or try my hardest routes.

Climbers enjoy the sun while climbing at Shelf Road.

Where To Go Rock Climbing Colorado in Winter:

We've mentioned a few but we can give a few more details on the best spots we think of for winter rock climbs as well as a few you might avoid.

Garden of the Gods | Elevation: 6400' | Closest City: Colorado Springs (0 min) | Climbability: Medium-High

With the variety of aspects, low elevation, and the easy access it tends to be a great spot when temperatures are warm. A lot of climbs face east or west so you may have to time it later in the day to get the best temps but it's not in a tight canyon so has good sun exposure. Because it stands out you do have to avoid windy or cloudy days.

Shelf Road | Elevation: 7000' | Closest City: Cañon City (30 min) | Climbablity: High

This is the favorite winter climbing spot for Front Range Climbers. People come all the way from Boulder and for Colorado Springs it's an easy day trip. Tons of great limestone and most of it is south facing. It's low elevation and has lots of curves in the walls that reflect the sunshine. This is probably the best winter destination for single pitch rock climbing in Colorado.

North Table Mountain | Elevation: 6500' | Closest City: Golden (10 min) | Climbability: High

With its proximity to Denver you won't be alone but the dark colored rock and the south facing walls make this a prime location for winter climbing in the Front Range. We regularly avoid the area in summer because it's so hot. It's a bit of a mesa so it can be tough if it's windy but on mild days it's a perfect spot for an after work session even.

Eldorado Canyon | Elevation: 6000'-7000' | Closest City: Boulder (20 min) | Climbablity: Medium-High

There are a variety of south and southwest facing walls at lower elevation. With a casual start most of the W. Ridge or Redgarden walls are pretty pleasant on some of those sunny low wind days. It might be the one time you don't have to wait in line on Bastille Crack if there's a warm spell.

South Platte | Elevation: 7500'-9500' | Closest City: Colorado Springs (1 hr) | Climbability: Medium

This is a wide area so you need to really figure out the specifics of each crag. Cynical Pinnacle and Turkey Rocks can be good spots on warm sunny days but snow on the roads or trail can make it tough to get to. Staunton is usually a good bet if it hasn't snowed in a while.

Not the Best But Can be Good in the Optimal Conditions:

Clear Creek Canyon | Elevation: 6000'-7000' | Closest City: Golden (10 min) | Climbability: Low-Medium

Clear Creek is a great spot for ice climbing in the winter. A lot of the crags are north facing and the few that aren't are at higher elevations. To climb here in winter you really need everything to line up conditions wise or it will be miserable.

Boulder Canyon | Elevation: 5500'-7750' | Closest City: Boulder (5 min) | Climbability: Low

While there are a good chunk of south facing walls they're frequently at higher elevations. If you're climbing strong Upper and Lower Dream Canyon are your best bet but otherwise the other walls are near the canyon floor and tend to have limited windows where climbing is pleasant, even when conditions line up.

The Flatirons | Elevation: 6000'-7500' | Closest City: Boulder (5 min) | Climbability: Low-Medium

Most of the formations face east or are tucked into shady corners. There are some spots that are climbable like Gregory Canyon but it's limited and the window of time is short. We've had a few trips climbing the First Flatiron where we were descending through half a foot of snow so you need to be careful.

Unaweep Canyon | Elevation: 7000'-8000' | Closest City: Grand Junction (40 min) | Climbability: Low

With the low sun in winter and the orientation of the crags you're gonna struggle to find good climbing temps until at least March. This is a great shoulder season crag though so definitely hit this area in Spring and Fall.

Avoid These Unless You Like to Suffer:

Pretty much avoiding the mountain towns now. Things like Lumpy and Rocky Mountain National Park in Estes Park aren't really going to be fun unless we've had unseasonable warmth and lack of moisture. Hartman Rocks and The Black Canyon are much less accessible this time of year and the snow and ice make the Black Canyon a multiday alpine adventures instead of rock climbing days. Silverton, Telluride, and Ouray are for ice climbing at this point. Better to head for crags in Durango instead.

Smiling in the sun at North Table Mountain, the closest climbing to Denver.

Guide Tricks for Rock Climbing in Comfort

Even when it's pretty pleasant weather it pays to be prepared. Here are a few techniques we like to use to help us keep comfortable.

Layer Up: If I'm not climbing then I'm hanging out in my puffy jacket. Maybe even some bigger gloves. Keeping your body warm while you're not climbing can be key to sending so you don't have to re warm yourself every time. Dress for the belay and then you can strip down for the climbing. Long underwear and some movement might make the difference between a day of climbing and just sitting at home.

Keep Shoes Warm: When I'm not wearing my climbing shoes I keep them warm by zipping them up in my jacket. There's not enough space for something like a chemical foot warmer and putting on warm shoes is much more pleasant than trying to shove my feet into cold. The body heat while belaying in a puffy jacket keeps them warm until it's time to climb. I try to avoid just hanging out in climbing shoes as well.

Stoves and Hot Water Bottles: A warm drink or a hot water bottle can really take the edge off when it's cold. A small backpacking stove can also be used to heat up water or even a small rock to throw in the chalk bag but chemical heat warmers can be nice enough.

Shake Out and Warm Up: The fingers touching cold rock is usually the crux of winter rock climbing. If you find yourself mid route and your fingers are numb the best place is the back of the neck. Also try to start warm and avoid things like crack climbs that won't see sun and will sap away all the heat.

Climbers smile while climbing in the fog during a cold training day in Cheyenne Canyon.

Consider Hiring a Guide

Hiring a guide in the winter is a great way to get the best experience without figuring out all these variables on your own. Professional guides provide several key advantages:

Local Knowledge: We know which crags and specific walls will be in the sun at different times of day based on current conditions.

Weather Monitoring: We track point forecasts and road conditions so you can skip the logistics and go straight to climbing.

Backup Plans: If rock climbing gets shut down by weather, we can pivot to ice climbing. The same conditions that make rock climbing miserable often create perfect ice.

Gear and Safety: We provide technical equipment and manage safety systems so you can focus on climbing, not carrying extra layers up the route.

Based in Colorado Springs since 2010, we guide winter rock climbing trips throughout the Front Range and know how to make the most of Colorado's winter climbing season.

When in doubt you can always join us on a climbing trip to El Potrero!