Why the San Juans Are the Best Place to Learn Ice Climbing in Colorado
The ice climbing located in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado is some of the best in the world (and cheaper to get to in most cases)! We are always excited to swing tools in the winter as we have access to some of the best ice in the San Juans. From the Lake City Ice Park to the big rigs around Silverton and Eureka we are lucky to be able to guide some of the best ice climbs in all of Colorado.
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The San Juans – Colorado’s Hidden Ice Playground
The San Juans covers a pretty large area of Colorado. Basically the mountainous are in the southwest corner. The concentration of ice climbing there is the thickest in the state so it makes an excellent training ground. Sure we guide ice climbing in Colorado Springs, Clear Creek, and even Rocky Mountain National Park but nowhere else can you feasibly belay from your car like the Lake City Ice Park or climb a quarter mile long mile vertical route like Stairway to Heaven. If the shear volume isn't enough then the variety will hit the spot. Everything from mixed testpieces in mega caves to chill ice gullies and a variety of aspects so you're less likely to get shut down by avalanche conditions. In the San Juans there are a couple places you really want to go and a few you can keep driving without really missing much.
Best Ice Climbing Locations
Lake City Ice Park: this is our favorite spot to take new ice climbers. While things are changing it's still nowhere nearly as crowded as the other ice park in the San Juans and the town has a much more isolated, wilderness feel. With nearly a mile long wall that's constantly gaining new additions there is plenty of ice. It's the most accessible place with early season ice and one of the last places to melt out (we've climbed ice well into April and heard rumours of May ice climbs). Not to mention the backcountry ice here hasn't found the same hordes as elsewhere. It's also closer and less difficult to get to if you're coming from the metro areas of the Front Range. Pro tip: go out in late October/November with 4WD and you'll likely be able to drive close to most of the backcountry ice climbs and avalanche hazard tends to be pretty minimal.
Eureka: On the other side of the continental divide from Lake City. If you're looking to go find the biggest ice routes in all of Colorado you'll find them here. A great prep location for a trip to the Canadian Rockies this is where you'll find classic routes like Goldrush, Stairway to Heaven, and some of the gully routes like First Gully and Second Gully. Things are big here and you are unlikely to be alone except early or late in the season but they're popular for a reason. Pro tip: be flexible with your objectives. Avalanche conditions can make the valley a death trap but there is plenty of options not far that can be just as enjoyable if you're not hung up on the exact route.
Ouray: You can't talk about climbing in the San Juans without mentioning Ouray. As the original ice park there is a lot of history there and the vibes of the town are really good for the climbing scene. Everyone should visit once. Over the years it has become quite crowded and with it's lower elevation the park can have a shorter season than it's competitor on the other side of the divide. We are pretty limited in our ability to guide here but it's not that big of a deal since things can be a bit aggro since everyone is trying to hit the park or classic backcountry routes. Pro tip: get the membership if you're climbing in the park so you can get early access. In fact just set your alarm for 4AM for anything you're trying to do there.
Ice Climbing Locations That Are More Journey Than Destination
Durango: There's just not a ton here and it's a heck of a drive if you're flying into Denver or Grand Junction. You'll drive by a bunch of better stuff from there anyways and if Red Mountain Pass closes you'll be driving around the boonies. The lower elevation means it's not a place I would aim for. Certainly worth it if you're already there but I wouldn't make this my destination when there is amazing climbing just a little over an hour away in Eureka.
Telluride: There are some classic climbs here for sure but the volume is less if you aren't a super strong climber. They're on everyone else's tick list also so if you don't mind hanging out in the most expensive mountain town outside of Aspen for your chance to hook your way up one of them by all means give us a call. You're already skiing the gnar, might as well climb something cool while you're at it!
South Mineral Creek: It's one of the first areas to come into shape and has drive up access. That's not unique but for some reason a lot of people head here which can make it hard to get on the line you want. Since routes tend to be funnels it can be a bit dangerous to follow people up routes early season. Once the road gets to snowy it's just a bit too far to be worthwhile when you can just get another 30 minutes of windshield time and be somewhere like Eureka.
Why the San Juans Tick the Box for Beginners and Experts
Whenever anyone asks where they should go ice climbing in Colorado our answer is almost always the San Juans. If they're a beginner they have some of the easiest access to the best ice at the Lake City Ice Park. If they're a solid climber then there is always a ton of fun stuff we can check out in Eureka or some of the mixed caves around Lake City. The Colorado Climbing Company has been showing people awesome experiences here with our certified guides so here are a couple other reasons we like ice climbing in the San Juans:
-They make a great area for progression. If you're new to ice climbing you can do your first ice climb one day and then hit your first multipitch route the next day. It's easy to get to feel like a pro in a single weekend. If you're an experienced ice climber you have a lot more options. South faces start getting baked out that usually means the north faces are less avalanche threatened. Cold snaps will bring in rare climbs in the Lake City backcountry and Silverton area that may only get climbed a few times a season. So you have the opportunity to find challenging terrain despite what may be challenging conditions and you won't have to hike 6 miles to get it.
-The mountain town vibes are excellent and most of these areas are more affordable. Lake City is a small town and as it gains notoriety it's important to get things booked early. Both Lake City and Silverton are isolated and remote. You're not going to find a Starbucks or Wal Mart without driving an hour. But what they lack in convenience will make you feel like less of a tourist. When you climb frequently in these places you get to become part of the daily fabric more since a lot of these businesses are enthusiastic about having climbers visit but still wanting to maintain their small town feel.
-Access couldn't be easier…well maybe if it was Europe. While we don't have gondolas or lifts to the base of a route the road access and proximity to these small mountain towns means the approach won't be the biggest part of your day. We came to climb! Sure Stairway takes like an hour to get to the base but you're not taking a 4WD road through the backcountry like areas around Canmore or taking an hour just driving out from town like Cody. The Lake City Ice Park has lots just across the creek from the routes and you could walk into town for a warm drink in the middle of the day if you were so inclined.
Why Choose Us as Your Guide in the San Juans
With the breadth of options and the depth of experience choosing a guide from The Colorado Climbing Company ensures you'll have the best experience possible. We focus on smaller group sizes and higher ratios, we include all the equipment, and we've been offering trips in these areas for over a decade. If you're looking for help with lodging or where to eat we're happy to help with that also.
Whether it’s your first time swinging tools or you’re ready for a bigger adventure, the San Juans are waiting. Book your guided ice climbing trip today.
