What To Expect on Your First Guided Ice Climbing Trip in Colorado
Ice climbing in Colorado offers some of the best beginner friendly terrain in the United States. If you're considering your first guided ice climbing trip you probably have questions about what the day actually looks like, what gear you'll need, and whether you're physically ready for the challenge. This guide covers everything you need to know before booking your first ice climbing trip in Colorado.
What is Ice Climbing and Why Colorado
What is Ice Climbing?
If you've never climbed you may not be familiar with the concept but early climbers strapped sharp metal spikes to their boots and held onto metal hooks to ascend the lower angle ice and steep snow. Now ice climbing is the sport of ascending frozen waterfalls, ice covered rock faces, and ice pillars using specialized equipment including crampons, which are those metal spikes attached to boots, and, ice tools which are the curved metal picks for swinging into ice. Modern ice climbing equipment allows climbers to ascend vertical and even overhanging ice formations that would have been impossible decades ago.
Why Ice Climb in Colorado?
Colorado is one of the top ice climbing locations in the United States. With the variety of altitudes and aspects there are a large number of ice climbs throughout the state that make it the best place to learn to ice climb for beginners with plenty of challenging terrain for experienced climbers as well. Altitude also helps Colorado have a longer season than some places without being bitterly unpleasant. As someone who learned to ice climb in the Adirondacks I appreciate that the dry air and frequent warm temperatures make for a much more comfortable setting to learn.
What Equipment is Included in Your Ice Climbing Experience and What You Need to Bring
We aim to make the logistics of your first ice climb as easy as possible. We think every guided climb should cover at minimum the basic equipment necessary to do the activity. We can't speak for other companies but all of our ice climbing trips include the following:
Mountain boots with step in compatible crampons (we feel these are the most secure for the best experience).
Steel step in crampons. These have metal clips on the front and back that attach securely to boots.
Leashless curved ice tools. If anyone hands you a leashed tool or straight ice axe outside a snow climbing class run!
Harness and helmet.
Group equipment like ropes, ice screws, and anything necessary to set up the ice climbs.
While we try to provide as much as we can there are certain things we don't provide for most trips because people are all different sizes and having a lot of clothing would make things too costly and unmanageable. So here are the personal things we don't provide (and neither do most guides):
Personal clothing like long underwear, waterproof jackets or insulation
A backpack for carrying things. We recommend a 18-30 liter pack like Black Diamond's Speed 33
Personal water or snacks for the day.
Sunglasses or other eye protection (guides usually have extras but sharing eye wear is a bit too close of contact for most people).
Because clothing is a big part of the ice climbing experience we are happy to help direct folks to appropriate clothing. For your first time ice climbing though think of what you might wear to go skiing or hiking in the snow and that is likely sufficient for the first time. A little more detail below.
Typical Itinerary and Other Guided Ice Climb Info
Typical Itinerary: As an example we'll discuss what a normal Intro to Ice Climbing Class typically looks like. Most days are pretty similar structurally just with different learning objectives or venues depending on the desired outcome.
Meet Up and Introduction/Safety Briefing: 8AM, depending on the specific climbing location we'll typically meet at a location close to the ice. . Either a trailhead or local shop where we can use the bathroom or grab a last minute snack. Guide(s) will introduce themselves and let you know any important safety info as well as a quick rundown of how they plan to run the ice climbing day.
Equipment Hand Out and Sizing: 8:15AM, this can take a bit of time. While we try to ensure equipment fits ahead of time people are all different sizes so we may make adjustments. Ice climbing trips are also a little bit more equipment heavy so we want to instruct guest on the basics for any future experiences.
Ice Climbing and Instruction: 8:45AM, this is the bulk of the day and for private ice climbing instruction it is very client lead. Guides tend to choose easier climbs at the start of the day to focus on technique and not wear people out too quickly. For a full eight hour climbing day we usually take a snack and warm up break in the middle of the day. Depending on people's goals we may include some rappelling or anchor building instruction as well as just ice climbing technique lessons.
Equipment Collection and Debrief: 3:45PM, all good things must come to an end. Usually at this point people are pretty tired. They give us back the gear we loaned out and we do a quick overview of the day. A little feedback for those who want to improve or just a quick recap of what we discussed and any next steps.
Dinner or Departure: 4PM, once everyone is set everyone is left to their own devices. If you're looking for more stories guides are always willing to spin more yarns over dinner but certainly a long day of climbing deserves some rest which is totally understandable.
As guides with AMGA certifications and decades of experience we generally find a ratio of one guide for every four guests provides the highest level of safety as well as opportunities for additional learning if a group has mixed skill levels or someone is more adept and wants to do more challenging things then other members of the group.
It's important that guests bring snacks and water for the day. We want you to get the most for your money so fueling your body will prevent fatigue. You'll expend a lot of calories so no shame in eating like a child on Halloween in my opinion.
Best Ice Climbing Locations in Colorado For Beginners
Colorado offers diverse ice climbing venues, from beginner friendly ice parks to backcountry frozen waterfalls. Here's the rundown on what's best for a beginner ice climber:
Ice Parks:
Colorado has two free ice parks that are worth mentioning one located in Lake City the other in Ouray. Having climbed in both we prefer the Lake City Ice Park. Although both are great Lake City is the taller and less crowded of the two. It's climbable season is longer and it's more easily accessible and because of the water system is less picked out. More on that in a moment.
Natural Ice Climbing Hotspots:
There are a ton of great ice climbing spots like Lincoln Falls, Vail, or Rocky Mountain National Park. As great as they are there are challenges such as long approaches, altitude, or difficulty that make them better for more advanced ice climbers than for beginners who might not quite be ready for that level of challenge. That doesn't mean you can't learn to ice climb on natural ice though. A couple good spots we like to take people are North Cheyenne Canyon and Clear Creek Canyon. North Cheyenne Canyon is the closest ice climbing to Colorado Springs and has great low angle ice to get started on basic ice climbing skills. Clear Creek is some of the best ice climbing near Denver. There are several climbs to do in the canyon that are all pretty moderate. They have small approaches so you spend more time ice climbing and the climbs are moderate so you don't get shut down your first time.
Lake City is our favorite spot because you can walk to the park after you have a coffee or waffle at the San Juan Soda Shop (who rents and sells climbing gear when you're ready). 2 major ski areas are not far and there is plenty of great snowshoeing, ice fishing, and winter hiking around for a few days. Because they spray water continuously it also keeps the ice from getting picked out. This is a term that describes how the ice gets when people swing and step in the same places frequently and it creates holes more akin to climbing a ladder. It can become quite annoying later in the season and you may hear climbers describe an ice climb as "picked out" or "stepped out".
Physical Fitness and Skills for Ice Climbing
Ice climbing looks intimidating, but it doesn't require super strength. Most people with average fitness can complete their first ice climb successfully. I've taken my two children, age 7 and 9 at the time, ice climbing. Since the tools are half the size they are it was difficult and they didn't reach the top but they had a great time. If you're in decent physical health and average strength there is no reason you shouldn't be able to complete an ice climb. That said here are some things that will help you prepare for your day and help you flourish rather than flounder.
Calf Endurance and Wrist Strength:
These are the two muscles you'll probably feel the most the day after ice climbing. Honestly the time I felt strongest on ice was after tiling my kitchen floor because my wrist strength was through the roof. This makes ice climbing a natural choice for people who work construction jobs such as framing, roofing, or tiling. The motions are natural. If you're not regularly climbing and you don't do demanding labor there are plenty of exercises that can help get you prepped for the day. Things like wrist curls, calf raises, pushups and squats are all simple calisthenics you can do without a gym membership that will prepare you for a day of ice climbing. Ice climbing uses major muscle groups such as quads, calves, and triceps. While other muscle groups help support these are the ones to strengthen.
Balance:
Part of your guides goal during a guided ice climbing day is to show you the body positions and hand positions that keep you in balance. You'll hear them keep repeating the A frame or triangle position. They'll discuss base of support and center of gravity to help you understand the physical feeling of when you're in balance vs out of balance.
Swing Technique:
Guides will also give a lot of instruction on the specific technique to swing the tools. It's very similar to a hammer. Minimal shoulder, little bit of elbow, lot of wrist flick.
Kick Technique:
Feet are our base of support in climbing so a lot of the start of the day will focus on this and guides may even take the ice tools away to get you focusing on hip placement, body arch, and foot position to ensure you are getting good kicks. If you find your toes are hurting check in with your guide about sizing up your boots.
Is Rock Climbing or Ice Climbing Easier to Learn?
A lot of guests wonder whether rock climbing or ice climbing is the easier to learn. In reality they're just different. People who have a lot of rock climbing experience have more of the sport specific strength but the differences in technique usually take them a little bit of time to catch on. If you've been ice climbing a while the technique and body position used in rock climbing are a bit different and may feel awkward since we don't normally step much higher than your knee with ice climbing. A lot of times it is terrain dependent but a WI2 ice climb and 5.6 rock climb are often pretty similar beginner level climbs. By the end of most days people can do WI3 or WI4 climbs with some guide instruction.
Weather Appropriate Clothing
Although Colorado Ice climbing is often some of the most pleasant weather wise that doesn't mean it's t-shirt weather (although I have climbed ice in a t-shirt). While it's less of a big deal for a half day trip or even a full day in the Lake City Ice Park where there are warming huts and town is a 5 minute walk we do think people will enjoy the experience more if they know how to layer. Below are the basics on how to layer your clothes as well as a few affiliate links to things we prefer in case you're shopping around.
Base Layer:
This is your wicking layer. It absorbs sweat and moves it away from your skin to prevent chilling. This is why we avoid cotton which tends to stay wet and clammy. Merino wool and synthetic base layers similar to Black Diamond's Coefficient shirt or leggings. If you've already got something like leggings or yoga pants those are a totally fine starter set up.
Insulation Layer:
This is what keeps you warm. The amount of insulation depends on how warm the temperature is during your ice climbing trip as well as your personal comfort zone. As the guide I'm usually moving less since I'm instructing so a lot of times I'll be in a big belay jacket or puffy like the BD Solution but something lighter like the BD First Light Hoody can be a good action layer.
Water Proof Layer:
The nice thing about ice climbing trips is there is no bad weather just bad clothing. If you're standing under the sprayer in the ice park or it's puking snow you want something to keep the wet out. Colorado is pretty dry so most of the time you can get by without or even something cheap like a PVC raincoat but if you're serious about climbing at some point you need a good shell jacket like BD's Fineline will keep you dry. A lot of times I tell folks not to bring their most expensive pants. The likelihood of snagging a crampon point and shredding those is high. Until it gets really wet and cold I honestly just use the cheap softshell pants at Costco. Sometimes people will ask about gaiters. These can be nice because they slim down the profile of your pants and protect them but it's just one more thing to carry around and potentially lose. In the long run I like pants with tie down loops or hooks that can be attached to your boots unless I know I'm going to be doing a lot of post holing through deep snow.
Other Ice Climbing Clothing Stuff:
While we provide footwear on our guided ice climbing trips you don't want to show up shoeless. Usually a pair of approach shoes is fine while you're changing. A nice low profile beanie is a good hat for if the helmet doesn't cut it for warmth. Gloves are probably the most interesting part of your outdoor get up. I usually have a few pairs. At least one for climbing and one for belaying. If it's really cold then I'll wear my big expedition mittens but Colorado ice climbing is rarely that cold. A lot of guides are switching to the single fishing gloves setup and having good success and they're pretty cheap. For my ice climbing glove I actually have started going for the cheap leather gardening or mechanics gloves after a client switched me onto them several years ago. They usually have a sturdy palm and decent knuckle protection and at $15-20 a pop you won't cry when they wear out. For the more intense cold I usually switch to the BD Punisher gloves.
Considerations for Booking Your First Ice Climbing Trip
There are a lot of things to think about before you set off on an ice climbing trip. Here are the last nuggets of wisdom to think about before you hit Book Now:
Season:
The ice season can start as early as October and go as late as May and alpine ice routes often don't really form well until June or July in places like Rocky Mountain National Park. This is rare for regular water ice climbs though and realistically you will have limited options if you're booking earlier than December or after March unless you're joining us on an expedition in AK. Looking for inspiration? Ask about our trips to the Ruth Gorge! If you're looking for ice climbing for beginners though then places like Clear Creek and Cheyenne Canyon will usually form in early or mid-December and then go out of shape in mid to late March. The Lake City Ice Park is usually a bit early around the November holidays and sticks around until April (although if you bring waders for the river I've seen people climb it in May).
Weather:
Like I said before there is no bad weather just bad clothing. That applies to the climbing, not so much the drive. Colorado is full of mountain passes so be sure to check out cotrip.org for latest info and conditions on your drive. If you're not familiar with mountain driving or snow then certain places like Silverton and Lake City may be a bit daunting. Even the interstates can become a skating rink under certain conditions. If there is a road closure on Monarch or Red Mountain Pass it may cause you to miss your trip if you're on the wrong side of things. Having a good forecast and the info on road conditions can give you a good idea on timing your drive. Little extra time so you can go slow on a snowy mountain pass isn't a bad idea.
How Soon To Book:
We offer a discount for early booking so if you want to save money then earlier is better. If you're looking at something early though you might discuss conditions and weather with us in advance. We can be flexible and move dates or even switch to a rock climbing trip but best to know that ahead of time instead of getting a surprise if it's 70 and sunny. Certain places like Lake City and Cheyenne Canyon are very reliable for the most part and barring significant heat waves you're pretty safe December-March. Certain climbs in Clear Creek are known to be more ephemeral and may not form or even melt out early. If you've got a specific goal in mind reach out and we're happy to give our opinions of how seasonal weather patterns affect particular climbs.
Ice Climbing FAQ
Do you need prior climbing experience to ice climb? No previous experience is necessary. We take plenty of people who've never climbed before. Any experience is helpful but not a requirement at all.
What is the best time of year to ice climb in Colorado? Between December and March is the most reliable and consistent. Most things that form regularly will have formed. There are certain climbs that require certain conditions and can be better in early season like November or even June/July but 90% of the ice climbing happens in the winter months.
Is ice climbing dangerous? There is ice falling so it makes for more objective hazard and bigger backcountry climbs do often take place in avalanche terrain. This is a good reason to seek the help of a guide such as ours who are familiar with these hazards and has AMGA certifications and experience to mitigate them.
How physically fit do you need to be? Average fitness is enough. If you can swing a hammer for ten minutes you have the fitness to ice climb. More is always better.
Can kids ice climb? For sure but I wouldn't expect the highest level of stamina or the ability to climb big routes. Until the tools are less than half their size it's hard for them to swing. Kids older than 12 will do much better than those younger ones who tend to pick up rock climbing a little more easily.
How Do I Book an Ice Climbing Trip?
Booking with us is easy. You can see all our online offered ice climbing trips and classes and book straight from that. You can always give us a call at (719) 209-6649. If you have any questions that haven't been answered here we're always happy to answer those questions via phone or email.
If you're new to ice climbing and really want to have the best experience we offer a (N)ice Weekend in Lake City that is a great way to get started. Included is two days of ice climbing, transportation from major metro areas in the Front Range as well as equipment, food, and lodging.
