Everything You Need to Climb The Lake City Ice Park
How to Climb The Lake City Ice Park
Having guided in the Lake City Ice Park for nearly a decade it has gone from a small, little known spot with a dozen routes to a well known spot amongst ice climbers with nearly a hundred routes and variations to keep climbers busy. With warming tents and benches for hanging out it’s a very beginner friendly place in regards to amenities.
On the other hand the size and complexity of the terrain requires some more advanced skills that make a guide invaluable as those who’ve never been to the park before or have less climbing experience can find themselves frustrated by some of the challenges of this unique resource if they’re not prepared. The rise in popularity and the increase in terrain is awesome for ice climbers as well as the Town of Lake City. There is truly no park like it so here are some things to help out newcomers and make sure they can make the most of their time out here and stay safer while climbing.
Locations, Parking, and Approaches:
All of the ice park climbing is located around County 20 or N. Henson Creek Rd. also called Bluff St. in town In Lake City. There are a couple natural ice flows across the street as well as the backcountry climbs farther up and on the other side of the mountains near the Sherman townsite.
If you stay in Lake City you can walk to the ice park for the most part and don’t have to worry about road conditions. This is about an hour south of Gunnison, CO which may be more well known. Be aware that County Road 149 isn’t always plowed between 5AM and 7PM like the signs say. Plan accordingly. In addition to good tires on the vehicle usually keep a shovel, scraper, backup battery, and tire pump in it during the winter. A satellite phone/messenger wouldn’t be a bad idea as well.
There are currently four climbing zones. Just below the town's water tower is the original ice climbing area now known as Pumphouse Park and next to that is the newest area, Devil’s Kitchen. Roughly another quarter mile will be the start of the next newest area across from a steel door into the side of the hill, the Dynamite Shack. A little further this kind of blends along into the Beer Gardens across from the ATV staging area.
Because of how the ice forms the routes aren’t super defined with a few exceptions. For the most part you can set up whatever looks cool. Just keep in mind everything is climb at your own risk. Beware the eggshell when setting up so you don’t trip off the top or twist an ankle.
Pumphouse Park:
As the original area this is one that gets the most attention as soon as the river freezes. The
re are about a dozen or so climbs from WI3 to easy WI5ish with a couple mixed routes on the left side. To set up a toprope you can walk around the climbers left side of the wall which is also where some of the shorter climbs are. There is a cliffside trail with a small sign that switchbacks along the cliff a couple times before heading on the hill. From there it should be obvious but if not keep an eye out for some flagging or water works that will take you to the top of the ice wall. While there was a slightly different approach on that side in years past that crossed through the corner of a neighboring property please follow the approach with the sign to avoid causing friction.
Devil’s Kitchen:
The newest addition as the town tries to create a mile of ice down Henson Creek Rd. this is separated from Pumphouse by the short steep ice buttress that’s closest to the road on the right end of Pumphouse Park. With a talus field as the base it tends to have lower angle ramps leading to steeper topouts. If toproping, the approach would be the same as Pumphouse but heading farther down. This is one of those areas where treating it like a two pitch climb or belaying from above might be most worthwhile. The climbs all seem to be about WI3/4. You can pull into one of the few spots by the sign or just park down the road at Pumphouse.
Dynamite Shack:
This newer area as of a few years ago is a doozy. There are a couple dozen potential routes here from WI2-WI5 but what makes them so spectacular is their size. Almost all of the routes here are nearly a full 70M rope length from the base, so over 200’ of climbing. While this is a great area to practice leading and multipitch climbing because of this if you’re wanting to set up a toprope then you’ll have to come all the way over from the Beer Gardens. There are a few small spots to park along the road but if those are full it’s not a far walk from the Beer Gardens parking and it’s only about a 5 minute walk from Pumphouse Park.
Beer Gardens:
While it’s been around a few years now it’s a great location for steeper climbs with most being around WI4 but WI5/6. It starts forming early but usually takes a bit more time to get thick enough to climb. The routes on the climbers' right side of the wall aren’t as sizable as the rest of the wall but still big, steep climbs. Farther to the left is some potential for sections of mixed climbing as well. The parking area has a nice big sign and there is plentiful parking. From the parking lot keep an eye out for some electrical lines and piping on the right side of the wall. This will lead you to the approach trail winding up the steep side of the hill. From there you can see a few signs for different climbs to help orient yourself or use a spotter on the ground.
Waterworks:
Before getting into some of the nitty gritty of setting up a quick note on the water works you’re likely to run into while up top. The water is generally running all the time. If you’re wanting to climb somewhere and water is running on you please, DO NOT TURN IT OFF! It will freeze and then it takes a lot of extra time to get things thawed out and set back up. This is part of why the ice isn’t so picked out. You can usually redirect the spray head off to the side in a way so it’s not spraying down on people. When I move a spray head I also try to aim it back the way I found it. Also keep an eye out for the bigger plastic pipes on the ground. They’re durable but not indestructible so a bunch of crampon holes will start to increase the costs of keeping things running.
Rope Skills:
Besides the regular skills like belaying and tying in, there are a few things to be aware of when climbing at the Lake City Ice Park when it comes to building anchors and choosing materials.
Routes are HUGE!
If you don’t have a static line and a long rope you’re going to be very limited in what you can climb. A couple of ice screws can help but not very much if you’re not able to use them well. Even with a 30M static line and 70M rope there will still be climbs you can’t set up as a normal top rope because of the length but those two items will get you up most of the things in the park. Because of this communication is key. Radios, cellphones, yell and point are fine but you’re unlikely to be able to see or hear a climber at the base when you’re at the top. Decide on a system before you walk up.
Also, don’t forget to close the system! Tie knots in the end of your rope to avoid lowering or rappelling accidents. Keep your toprope belays really tight, particularly near the ground. A wet 70M rope has a lot of stretch and a climber can deck from 20-30 ft off the ground. A ground anchor might not be a terrible idea, just be sure to set it up where the belayer won’t be getting showered with ice.
Alternatives For Shorter Ropes: If you don’t happen to own a static setup rope or a 70M rope you can still get some climbs in with some shenanigans. As a guide I frequently will lower more experienced climbers from the top. While I try to stage myself where I can see somebody, some other form of communication can alleviate this if you have to be a bit farther from the edge. Two 60M ropes can be tied together with a flemish bend or double fisherman’s knot. This is a bit advanced and requires some coordination with having a second device or person after the knot and is mega stretchy so be warned. Pre stretch that rope and keep it really tight! If you’re a more experienced climber then you can also treat some as two pitch climbs. ‘Slip and Slide’ and ‘Between Two Ferns’ are two prominent gullies in the Dynamite Shack area that are excellent for this and can help you avoid the long walk from the Beer Gardens.
Guide Tip: lower the middle of your rope and then make a little ball to throw your end. This will make it more likely it gets all the way to the ground and not hung up on a ledge. It will also give people a second to notice your rope and hopefully politely tell you to pull it up if somebody is leading below that you can’t see.
Familiarize Yourself With V Anchors
Not the V thread, although that’s helpful to know too, I’m talking about what are commonly called Joshua Tree or V Anchors. While common knowledge amongst AMGA Single Pitch Instructors a lot of climbers who may be used to bolted anchors or setups close to the edge aren’t familiar with these setups and struggle with adequate anchors when the trees or fixed gear are far from the edge.
Speaking of fixed gear, the painted posts at the top of the Pumphouse are to be used along with some of the trees for building anchors. Any waterworks or things with signs are not for anchor building. Elsewhere in the park you can use trees and ice screws to get a nice bomber anchor.
Guide Tip: If you’ve made a V-anchor and your rope still doesn’t reach the ground you have a potential option. If one leg of your anchor is bomber and the terrain is easy I’ll sometimes lower down farther and use an ice screw or two to make a second point way farther down the cliff to tie the other side of the V to. Sometimes that may be all the way at the other end of my setup rope. Did I already say close the system!
Ice Quality and Leading
Those of us familiar with how natural ice and park ice form generally prefer the natural stuff for leading for it’s consistency. Park ice is convenient but the way it forms often runs the gamut with lots of chandelier and popcorn or eggshell type ice that can give way unexpectedly. If you want to lead in the park be sure to excavate through the bad ice to get good placements and remember falling while leading ice isn’t really a positive life choice.
Pre and Post Climb Stuff
Even in the summer Lake City is not a major metropolitan area. In winter services are limited. Like any Colorado travel in winter it’s helpful to be prepared.
Where To Stay, Eat, and Get Gear
Lake City isn’t very big and it feels a bit smaller in winter when some people tend to head elsewhere till the summer season begins again. There are a number of local businesses who appreciate the winter support. If you’re spending a lot of time in the park consider donating or getting a membership.
One important place for climbers is our friends at the San Juan Soda Shop on Silver St. In addition to some morning treats they also have a small gear shop and rentals if you happen to forget something.
To help find what is open the Lake City Chamber of Commerce has put together a spreadsheet of open businesses that usually has a spreadsheet link here.
The Lake City Ice Park has become a great resource for climbers and the town. With a little bit of effort on our part as climbers to help each other and be respectful we can keep the low key vibe that is a huge part of the draw of climbing here.
If you’re looking for more information on climbing in the area consider hiring an AMGA certified guide with some experience in the area. We’re always happy to help new and experienced climbers.
Contact us at (719) 209-6649 or check our Lake City Ice Climbing page
